April 11, 2022
by Kimberley Keighley
When it comes to oolong, it certainly seems as though there is an oolong that you can reach for that will perfectly fit any weather condition, season, mood etc. The wide umbrella of oolong offers options across a broad spectrum, from roasted and highly oxidized oolongs, to greener less oxidized oolongs and everything in between. With spring and summer hopefully bringing warmer days to us soon, those greener, lighter, oxidized oolongs are going to be what we are all reaching for over the heavier oxidized oolongs that are typically better suited for cozy fall and winter days.
Ali Shan Special is one of the best greener oolongs to welcome in the spring. Ali Shan and other high mountain teas are only harvested twice a year, unlike others that can be harvested up to five times a year. These harvests are usually done in October and June, but each producer will vary in terms of when they prefer to harvest. The picking standard for these teas is two to four young, hand-plucked, leaves. The harvested leaves are then withered to reduce moisture content and then oxidized using bamboo trays.
Let’s talk oxidation! A classic Ali Shan Oolong like this one has usually oxidized around 30-40 per cent, which yields a light-medium oolong that is perfect to bridge the gap between winter and spring, welcoming the warmer weather. After the oxidation is completed the leaves are then processed into cloth bags, which are rolled multiple times to remove any residual moisture from the oxidation process.
In its dry form, the leaves of this tea are tightly rolled into raisin-like shapes and vary in size from small to large. The color palette of the leaves covers many shades of green, ranging from a light, slightly yellow-green to a deep, dark green with some hints of a soft brown color. The aroma of the dry leaves provide vegetal notes reminiscent of asparagus and spinach. There is a subtle and soft floral note present as well, alongside dry green hay and straw. Some tea enthusiasts may be able to discern a slight milky aroma and even subtle hints of popped rice.
After a quick rinse of the leaves, the aroma became much more floral than the dry leaves had been. The prominent vegetal aromas remained present but had transformed into a deeper, more established scent. The rice notes became more of a sobacha buckwheat aroma, while the milky aroma remained present. Moving along, subtle notes of roasted cashews did appear in the aroma of the wet leaves, concluded by notes of hints of dried apricot, and onigiri, with fresh and clean finish.
From the start to the very end of each session with this tea, the liquor of the steeped tea was a light yellowy green reminiscent of the glow from a buttercup. Both the green and yellow hues became additionally vibrant over the steeps until the last two when it became a very pale green tone. The overall flavor profile was buttered spinach and onigiri wrapped in nori, entwined with floral hints. The blossoming orchid started quite delicate but became more prominent with each seep.
The creamy note mentioned previously were present in the taste, though subtle, and was much more of an underpinning when it came to taste bridging the gaps between all of the other notes in the flavor profile. Overall in terms of taste, this is a very clean and fresh oolong that became so prominent in the aroma of the leaves and the empty gong dao bei at the end of the session that smelt exactly like the way that grass smells when it's been freshly cut in the summer. The liquor of this tea has a smooth, butter-like mouthfeel, though light and thin.
There's no dryness to detect in early steeps, but they did arise towards the last few infusions. This particular Ali Shan was void of astringency throughout all steeps, allowing for those creamy, floral notes to really shine through.
By the end of the session, the leaves that were once tightly rolled balls had unfurled into beautiful large full leaves, some of which were almost the size of my palm! The leaves varied in shades of beautiful green colors. My last sip had me to ready to ring in spring with peace, tranquility, and a much-welcomed sense of renewal.