April 25, 2022
by Diana Rosen
Unlike the unique unglazed Chinese Yixing clay teapot or fine hand-painted porcelain teapots of both Asia and the west, cast-iron teaware of Japan is neither delicate nor lightweight nor as common, however, it should be for the best of reasons: it makes great tea.
Although historians cannot pinpoint exactly when cast iron was first used for tea kettles, many believe the origin was the cast iron water kettle, tedorigama, used in Japan since the 16th century. Previously, yakkan copper pots were popular for heating water yet many people thought copper tainted water for both soups and teas. Cast iron proved an excellent alternative to improve the taste of boiled water which subsequently made the brewed teas, especially sencha, sweeter. As a plus, it contributed valuable iron to the diet too.
The cast iron category includes the unglazed tetsubin, used for heating water or keeping heated water hot for subsequent infusions and was long a feature of the Japanese tea ceremony (cha-no-yu) where they are heated over a charcoal brazier (binkake.) Tetsu kyusu are used for tea brewing because its inside is coated with an enamel glaze, making it adaptable to brew any type of tea. It is never used to heat water as the temperature needed would crack the glaze.
HOW CAST IRON POTS ARE MADE
Many tetsubin are made with the same craftsmanship that has been nurtured for centuries. In particular, the city of Morioka in the Iwate Prefecture specializes in high-level teaware, and the area is rich in natural iron and wood.
The process for the finest cast iron pots involves s pouring molten iron into clay molds which, for the highest-grade pots, are used only once. Stamping is done by hand. Sand molds are generally used for mass production. After molding, one of three traditional relief patterns are used: arare (hail or hailstone) a hobnail or dotted pattern; oni-arare (hail ogre) a large pattern, and hada (skin) which has a rough surface with irregular texture shaped into designs from nature like plants, birds, or flowers.
Sizes vary from one cup to five liters and are made in many different styles from traditional round ones to other geometrical shapes or whimsical designs. In general, the ornamentation is on the side with the spout facing to the right because tetsubin is held with the right hand in sencha-do (the tea ceremony using loose-leaf green tea.) The opposite is true for cha-no-yu, where the teapot is carried with the left hand. In both cases, the ornamental side is held in a way best viewed by the guests. As a side note, both the yakkan and tetsubin are used with the spout facing to the right, another suggestion that these two pots are historically connected.
HOW TO PREPARE YOUR POTS
After purchase, rinse your tetsubin with cool water to clear any dust or detritus then discard the water. Next, place the pot on a flame and boil and discard the water several times. Your pot is now ready to be a trusted water kettle over an open fire, a charcoal brazier, or on a gas stovetop. Do not use on electric stove elements as they can harm the pot. Take care to use a well-insulated potholder or thick towel when removing the pot from the heat. Pour the water slowly over the tea leaves in the cup or teapot and brew according to the type of tea. As protection, place the teapot on a trivet afterward.
After purchasing a tetsu kyusu, rinse it with hot water several times and discard the water. This ensures that any dust or particles from packaging or production are removed. Lightly fill a strainer with tea leaves, place in the pot, and then pour hot water from your teakettle or tetsubin and brew according to tea type. To serve, first remove the strainer, then pour the brewed liquor into the waiting cups. Be aware that the pot retains heat well, and could burn or stain a tabletop, so again, we advise using a trivet when the teapot is not in use.
HOW TO CLEAN YOUR POTS
To clean either a tetsu kyusu or tetsubin, always empty them completely. Rinse well with warm water. Avoid cold water as that can crack any glaze or damage patina. Dry thoroughly. If water remains in the spout or lid, let dry in a well-ventilated area. Never use soap, detergent or scrubbers. By taking these steps you’ll preserve your pot for decades. It is not unusual for beautifully made tetsubin and tetsu kyusu to be passed down for several generations.
It is essential to ensure that after using the pot and rinsing it clean, it is thoroughly dried to avoid rust. If the pot does show rust, use a soft brush and wipe it away. If the rust is severe, either use a baking soda/water paste or a 50-50 solution of vinegar and water. Apply with a soft brush or cloth and wipe until the rust comes off. Use boiled hot water to clean off the solution from the pot. Dry thoroughly, and store your pot carefully.
NOTE: Whenever possible, use spring water versus tap water. This not only produces better tasting tea it prevents lime buildup which occurs with tap water. If using tap water, use a filter on the spigot or pour the water through a filtering pitcher with a filter. To rid an iron pot (or a stainless steel teakettle) of limescale, add a teaspoon of powdered citric acid to the area with just enough water to form a paste. Allow to sit for 10-20 minutes, then wipe away with a cloth. Rinse thoroughly with boiling water several times, dry completely then store safely.