October 05, 2022
by Diana Rosen
The first time I tasted Silver Needle tea, it was served in a tall glass tumbler, all the better to view the long, elegant leaves dancing, releasing their delicate fragrance and taste. The Tea Master said this was Grandpa Tea, so named because it was mild and would not interfere with sleep, so the elders of China favored this before bedtime. (Please see writer's caution below about caffeine.)
I later learned that Grandpa Style Tea (aka Farmers Tea) is ubiquitous throughout China, a fixture at food markets, in shops or mah jong gatherings, anywhere, elders and others, meet to do business or socialize. From morning til dusk, they will sip tea brewed farmers or grandpa style all day long.
Today, this simple brewing technique is hugely popular here in the U.S. for its simplicity: leaves in a glass with cooler water poured on top, brewed without infusers, strainers, or other paraphernalia. Teas are delicate white, green or yellow teas, or lovely Yunnans, high-grown Formosa oolongs or Puerhs, both raw and ripe.
The benefits of brewing tea with cooler water are often surprising to first-time users. The complexity of flavors is more fully revealed and bitter astringency is gone.
HOW TO MAKE GRANDPA STYLE TEA:
Heat fresh, cold water to 140 F. If you don’t have a kettle with a temperature gauge, heat the water to boiling, then allow it to cool about 7 to 10 minutes to 140 F.
In a clean, heat-proof 16 oz. glass tumbler, put in twice the amount of tea than you’d usually put in a cup.
Pour on the cool water, and allow to steep about five to 15 minutes, to your taste. Enjoy!
ALTERNATIVES TO A GLASS TUMBLER:
Zhongs come with both a lid and infuser. Remove the infuser, brew as above, then use the lid to keep the tea warm.
Large mugs, preferably a heat-resistant ceramic or borosilicate glass mug, put in the tea and water as described above. You can heat the water hotter, if you like, but the cooler water provides an astonishing variety of flavor profiles for Dragonwell, Silver Needle, Wen Shan Pouchong, and lighter-fired Yunnan teas, green or black.
Bombillas: This gourd-shaped container is used traditionally to brew Yerba Mate and drunk through a straw. This is a perfect utensil to avoid drinking stray tea leaves. Brew as shown above. You can, of course, use a straw with your mug or glass, and skip brewing in the gourd.
A Thermos, or two: Whether off for an in-person meeting or a picnic in the park, take a thermos of brewed grandpa tea. If you’ll be gone all day, take a second thermos of extra water to reinfuse the tea.
ANSWERING YOUR QUESTIONS:
Yes, the leaves will fall to the bottom after brewing, and of course, the glass will be comfortable to the touch because both the water used is cooler and the time to infuse is longer.
Keeping the tea the same temperature can be a challenge, even with multiple pours of heated water, so consider a lid for the glass or mug, or use a small saucer to cover it to retain the heat. Or, opt for an electric warmer plate. Just set your mug or heatproof glass on it, and the tea temperature will be consistent with each sip.
For the sweetest brew, fill the tumbler only two-thirds full, consume half, then refill. Pour the water on quickly so that all the leaves are “awakened”. Add more tea leaves on subsequent infusions, as desired.
Should you find the tea too strong, add more water or use less tea.
NOTE: Think of Grandpa Style Tea as a more casual version of gongfu style brewing with a guywan, and how it is a way to enjoy watching the leaves unfurl. No need to paddle the leaves with the lid yet the visual pleasure of dancing leaves and gentle brewing are the same.
CAUTION: Caffeine sensitive? Be aware of caffeine levels of your tea as the Grandpa Tea method releases more flavor, and more caffeine.
