October 18, 2023
by Diana Rosen
Taiwan’s tea may have originated with its own species, Camellia formosensis, many centuries ago; historians cannot agree. What we do know is that the Chinese varietal, Camellia sinensis, was brought from the famous Wuyi Mountain region of Fujian province in China to Taiwan during the 17th century. This exceptional tea, grown in rocky terroir, found its new home in the Lugu area of Nantou and in northern Taiwan quite welcoming.
Now known as yancha or rock tea, “rocky” might also be used to describe the history of tea growing and tea trade on this island country. Taiwan was encroached upon in 1590 by the Portuguese who called the land Ilha Formosa, “The Beautiful,” and in 1624, the Dutch East India Company built Fort Zeelandia, a trading post that lasted nearly 50 years when Han Chinese first emigrated from Fujian with seeds and plants from their famous Wuyi Mountain gardens and began planting what are the definitive ancestors of today’s spectacular tea bushes.
Smallest of all traditional tea-producing nations, its cool, humid, mountainous landscape provides an excellent location for tea growing. In comparison to China, India or Sri Lanka, the output of tea from Taiwan is quite small, about 20% of the world’s production, and most of Taiwan’s more than 20 tea varieties are processed as oolong (wulong), semi-oxidized, and either closer to greens at 10% oxidation or up to 80% for more robust examples. Taiwan harvests tea four or five times a year, with pluckings twice a year in the highest altitudes.
Among the most sophisticated of today’s Taiwan teas are several oolongs: Formosa Fancy Bai Hao, Ali Shan Special, and Wen Shan Pouchong, and two quite spectacular blacks: Yu Chi Assam Black and Formosa Ruby 18.
STELLAR OOLONG OFFERINGS
The Wen Shan regional tea, Formosa Superior Fancy Bai Hao, is as lovely to view in its dry leaf state as it is to taste when infused, due to the processing technique of encouraging the “leafhopper” insect. Farmers believe that the insects’ saliva produces a particular chemical reaction with the leaves that contributes to both the tea’s distinctive floral/fruity fragrance and taste profiles. The long elegant leaves are a deep red, tips are plentiful, and processing includes a prolonged withering process with oxidation up to 80%. The result is a scent and taste of peach blossoms with a lingering note of honey. An excellent morning tea because of its high level of caffeine, it should be steeped at water temperatures under boiling, 195°F, for 2-3 minutes.
Ali Shan Special provides a buttery-rich cup that reflects its origins in the high-altitude Wen Shan. The leaves are exceptionally tender and luxurious looking and harvested only twice a year in October and June. Only 2 to 4 of the youngest leaves are chosen and always hand-plucked. They’re withered and then oxidized between 30-40% before being rolled into small balls which removes any residual moisture and stops oxidation. This process yields a light-medium flavor. Suggested brewing is 2-3 minutes in cooler water, about 180°F. Serve in glassware to enjoy the unfurling of the balls as they release a liquor with a creamy mouth feel and sweet aftertaste. An excellent afternoon tea with or without sweets, with a medium level of caffeine.
Whispers of gardenia, lilac, and vanilla are part of the sensual pleasures of Wen Shan Pouchong, a lightly oxidized oolong grown in New Taipei’s Pinglin District. Its terroir is slightly wild and develops tea with a delicate body in the cup during steeping. This is an excellent pouchong to experiment with cooler temperatures to bring out the sophisticated processing of these finely crafted leaves. Consider 185-190°F for the first one or two steepings at 2 minutes, then increase to boiling, 212°F, for 2-3 minutes to capture the nuances of lily-of-the-valley, river rock minerals, and sweet clover. High level of caffeine.
TWO SIGNATURE TAIWANESE BLACK TEAS
Yu Chi Assam Black, grown in Yu Chi in the Nantou region of Taiwan, is not processed with the cut-tea-curl or orthodox full-leaf style of classic Assam tea of India. Instead, Nantou area farmers roll the leaves into elegant, leggy dark twists that infuse to a medium-deep mahogany liquor in the cup with complex notes of molasses, malt, spice, and honey. The finish is soft and sweet, reminiscent of cotton candy. Without any apparent astringency, the liquor is deeply smooth and its many flavor nuances are best revealed with gong fu brewing, although classic western teapot brewing is fine. A high level of caffeine is the result of 2-3 minutes of steeping at boiling water, 212°F.
Formosa Ruby 18 Black is the result of decades of experiments developing a unique cultivar blend of wild Formosa tea and Burmese Assam. Grown in the Long Tan region on the island, the tea benefits from the terroir with an intense, spicy, and surprisingly complex combination of flavor notes: licorice, caramel, and toasted vanilla bean. The dry finish hints of menthol. Also known as Red Jade, Formosa Ruby 18 is a visual delight with its lovely buds and makes the perfect accompaniment for afternoon tea sweets, or enjoy it as a bracing cup for breakfast. High level of caffeine. Brew at boiling, 212°F, for 2-3 minutes.
