September 08, 2022
by Diana Rosen
The Way of Tea
(excerpted)
"A friend presented me
with tender leaves of Oolong tea,
for which I chose a kettle
of ivory-mounted gold,
a mixing-bowl of snow-white earth.
With its clear bright froth and fragrance,
it was like the nectar of Immortals."
- Chio Jen aka Cen Jiazhou, ((715–770)
Tang Dynasty poet
From the birthplace of fine oolongs, Fujian, comes this exquisite low-fired oolong as fragrant and as tasty as any you can find. Anxi Wulong Low Fire combines the delicacy of Chinese greens with the lingering sweet essence in fragrance and taste of a lightly-oxidized oolong.
Anxi, in southern Fujian Province, is more well known for Tie Guan Yin, however, this low-fired oolong echoes the area’s distinctively orchid-like scent in both fragrance and flavor. The Anxi region, which adapted the oolong tea processing style in the 18th century, introduced it to Northern Fujian tea farmers, cementing it as a definitive tea processing style of the province.
Our exclusive selection of Anxi Wulong Low Fire is grown by farmer Huang Jiang Bin from12-year-old trees at an elevation of 850 meters. The leaves are hand-fired but once to provide a light aroma in its tightly-rolled dry leaves that, when steeped, are intensely “oolong-sweet” and unfurl into their long (7cm) unfurled size along with the ample buds. The rolled leaves appear to concentrate this signature scent that is accented when using smaller vessels for brewing. An Yixing teapot, dedicated to lightly-oxidized oolongs, would offer even more complexity for the palate to enjoy, however, we had good success using a gaiwan after experimenting with several methods of steeping and a range of temperatures from 185°F to boiling.
The most satisfying tea-tasting experience involved the gaiwan with a heaping teaspoon of leaves. After a quick rinse and removal of that water, we brewed the leaves for 2 minutes with 6 oz. of water heated to 195°F. Sipping its light yellow-hued liquor was ambrosial, however, sipping the remainder at 3 minutes revealed more complexity and just as much of a rounded sweet edge. The second full steeping was no less satisfying and delicious with an equally wonderful creamy aftertaste. Should you not have a temperature-gauge kettle, boil the water and let stand until your thermometer reads at the lower temperature of 190-195°F then brew as desired.
This is an ideal tea for mid-morning or afternoon, (or both!) luxurious in the mouth with just enough clean and crisp character to make it perfect either with a light snack or as a singular tea-tasting experience by itself. Its many layers of nuanced flavors make it continuously interesting throughout the season. One could never tire of this tea.
Although the varieties of oolongs are legion, it is likely that the first oolongs began in the
Beiyun region of the Phoenix Mountain in Fujian between 618-907. Its reputation was cemented when it became the first Tribute Tea selected by the Emperor to be offered as a
gift to the royal court during the Song Dynasty (960-1279.)
“Drink your tea slowly and reverently,
as if it is the axis on which the world earth revolves -
slowly, evenly, without rushing toward the future.”
- Thich Nhat Hanh (1926-2022)
Vietnamese Zen Buddhist monk and peace activist
